ガブリエル・モローニのインスタグラム(gabrimoroni) - 10月9日 21時31分
Last project done before the season in Champorcher ends...
On this beautiful boulder you have two obvious lines, that share the same start, the classic sandbagged 7b+ Cheligna and @niky_ceria 's Il Salto del Corazza 8a with a very committing final jump to the lip!
Three years ago, after a few days of work, I was able to put up the logical sit start of Cheligna. The result was a very crimpy 8b I named Minorenni a Carico!
I've never really thought about the sit start of Il Salto del Corazza, not being able to do the final move... until a couple of weeks ago!
I worked the jump with a rope and came to the conclusion that my only solution, not being able to reach like Nicky did, was a scary all points off dyno...
So after I did the first repetition of Il Salto del Corazza, the logical thing was to complete the line with the sit start.
Finally it took me a couple of more days to repeat the "Minorenni a Carico" moves and once I had the 8b crux move kind of dialed I managed to fall a couple of time at the all points off final move...
But last saturday conditions were on my side and I was able to not punting the redpoint crux again and complete also this Champorcher long standing project I now named Minorenni Corazzate 8b+!!...
It was probably a last day best day effort since the season is coming to the end and tomorrow I am leaving for the yearly pilgrimage to my Mecca, Frankenjura!!!
📸: @eltonturkey
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2017/10/9