ガブリエル・モローニさんのインスタグラム写真 - (ガブリエル・モローニInstagram)「15/12/2023 EREBOR 9b, Eremo di San Paolo, Arco It’s 6:15AM when I hear the sound of the alarm clock. I am planning to meet @cesar_grosso at the crag at around 10AM.  From Milano it’s a 2:30h drive but if you start a bit too late, the risk of getting stuck in the traffic is very high.  Even if the day before was pretty tiring I feel pretty fresh and relaxed and the lonely drive goes smoothly accompanied with a couple of interesting podcasts. Once at the crag it starts the usual warm-up routine. Fingerboard, links on our routes and a few heater sessions in between. Cesar starts first on his project Zauberfee. Despite the first few holds being wet he gets to the point where he falls most of the times. He looks solid and he makes it past the crux. I am pretty sure he is going to send but suddenly he’s hanging on the rope. Numb fingers he says. Inspiring effort nevertheless! Now it’s my time.  I already put a decent amount of sessions this season, like 8 days or so and I feel like any try from the start could be the one.  I start energetic and fast but this excitement brings me back to the ground after only a handful of moves. I am shaking and I feel like I need to calm down. I wait a few minutes and I am back on the wall. This time I don’t feel that previous attempt’s pressure and my fingers are much warmer. Feelings are not the best but I get to the redpoint crux. I am used to fall here but this time I am more confident. I try to focus on the moves and not the feelings and somehow I am past the crux. It’s the first time I find myself here. I only have an awkward kneebar rest and a final hard sequence ahead. At the rest I feel like I am recovering well and some thoughts come. I have been trying this route for a few seasons, it has been a proper process with various phases, ups, downs, more time to dedicate, less time, stuck phase, an injury and so on. Now I am in the situation I really don’t want to fail. It would be too much to handle and I am ready to give up if it happens.  I leave the rest and embark in this last journey. Every move is a full effort but at the end I clip the chains… It’s a monumental moment for myself.  Now I am ready to move on… 📸 @enrychris」12月28日 18時21分 - gabrimoroni

ガブリエル・モローニのインスタグラム(gabrimoroni) - 12月28日 18時21分


15/12/2023 EREBOR 9b, Eremo di San Paolo, Arco
It’s 6:15AM when I hear the sound of the alarm clock. I am planning to meet @cesar_grosso at the crag at around 10AM.
From Milano it’s a 2:30h drive but if you start a bit too late, the risk of getting stuck in the traffic is very high.
Even if the day before was pretty tiring I feel pretty fresh and relaxed and the lonely drive goes smoothly accompanied with a couple of interesting podcasts.
Once at the crag it starts the usual warm-up routine. Fingerboard, links on our routes and a few heater sessions in between.
Cesar starts first on his project Zauberfee. Despite the first few holds being wet he gets to the point where he falls most of the times. He looks solid and he makes it past the crux. I am pretty sure he is going to send but suddenly he’s hanging on the rope. Numb fingers he says. Inspiring effort nevertheless!
Now it’s my time.
I already put a decent amount of sessions this season, like 8 days or so and I feel like any try from the start could be the one.
I start energetic and fast but this excitement brings me back to the ground after only a handful of moves. I am shaking and I feel like I need to calm down.
I wait a few minutes and I am back on the wall. This time I don’t feel that previous attempt’s pressure and my fingers are much warmer. Feelings are not the best but I get to the redpoint crux. I am used to fall here but this time I am more confident. I try to focus on the moves and not the feelings and somehow I am past the crux. It’s the first time I find myself here. I only have an awkward kneebar rest and a final hard sequence ahead. At the rest I feel like I am recovering well and some thoughts come. I have been trying this route for a few seasons, it has been a proper process with various phases, ups, downs, more time to dedicate, less time, stuck phase, an injury and so on. Now I am in the situation I really don’t want to fail. It would be too much to handle and I am ready to give up if it happens.
I leave the rest and embark in this last journey. Every move is a full effort but at the end I clip the chains…
It’s a monumental moment for myself.
Now I am ready to move on…
📸 @enrychris


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