安間佐千さんのインスタグラム写真 - (安間佐千Instagram)「Polaris 5.14b〜c? 8c〜8c+? FA✅ 小豆島と小川山を行ったり来たりする今年の夏と秋。礫岩と花崗岩は、開拓者にとって対極に位置すると感じてきた。花崗岩は、その明瞭な形状から開拓者を導く。逆に言えば、開拓者はその導きに身を委ねざるを得ない。それに対して礫岩は開拓者が自由自在に遊び回れる。自由な発想が許される。その二つの性質を行き来しながらも、僕は礫岩の導きや、花崗岩での自由な発想とは何かを考えてきたように思う。小豆島新規開拓エリアで初登したPolarisは、岩の導きと、開拓者の自由な発想の二つが合わさった今シーズンの一つの集大成と言える。緩やかに右上するルーフの淵をトラバースする発想は、僕の登攀意欲を駆り立てた。幾つものラインの可能性を捨てることとなるが、そこには礫岩の放つ一筋の光が差し込んでいると感じでいた。グレードだが、初登後簡単なムーブも発見され、まだ不明。ルート名は、この地を護る妙見菩薩より。 This summer I have been going back and forth between Shodoshima and Ogawayama. I have felt that conglomerate and granite are the opposite sides of the same coin for pioneers. Granite leads the pioneer because of its distinct shape. Conversely, the pioneer is forced to surrender to its guidance. On the other hand, conglomerate rocks allow the pioneer to play around freely. It allows for free thinking. While going back and forth between the two, I have been thinking about the guidance of conglomerate rock and what it means to think freely in granite. Polaris, the first ascent in the newly developed area of Shodoshima, is the culmination of this season’s work, combining the guidance of the rock and the free thinking of the pioneers. The idea of traversing the edge of the gently ascending roof to the right was a great inspiration for me to climb. I was throwing away the possibility of several lines, but I felt there was a ray of light in the conglomerate rock. The grade is still unknown. Some easy moves were discovered after the first ascent. The name comes from Myoken Bosatsu (Bodhisattva) who protects the area. Photos by @climb.do @cogworkscoltd @ue_climbing @hibiki_miyazawa @adidasterrex @fiveten_official @petzl_official @carbongrip @newhale_japan @newhale_climbing #アルテリア @shodoshima_olive_yh_good_stay @shodoshimaclimbing #小豆島クライミング」10月23日 15時16分