surflineのインスタグラム(surfline) - 10月20日 12時31分
Back in December 2015, at the peak of his career as a big-wave surfer, @MarkMathewssurf went down on a bomb at Jaws, injuring his shoulder and sidelining him for nine months. Not even a year later, Mathews was surfing a slab in NSW, Australia when tragedy struck again. He severed an artery in his leg, and this time, doctors said he’d never surf again.
Of course, most people would call it quits after that. But Mathews isn’t like most blokes. The just-released film, 'The Other Side of Fear,' chronicles Mathews’ struggles through injury, to his road to recovery and surfing again, to transitioning to a side hustle as a motivational speaker. (Turns out, speaking to large crowd frightens him more than 50-foot waves.) But as Mathews puts it, “the only way through fear is experience.”
@redbullau @レッドブル
-
Hit the link in bio to watch the full film.
[BIHAKUEN]UVシールド(UVShield)
>> 飲む日焼け止め!「UVシールド」を購入する
12,653
56
2020/10/20