小山田大のインスタグラム(dai_koyamada) - 12月2日 14時35分


last week, I was able to complete the project I was trying in Shirakawa. It took 12 days total and while on the project I was forced to break away because of injury, but it finally happened today.
2 days ago I couldn’t link the bottom part and seemed it was going to take more time, but conditions of both the rock and my body was good today. On the third try the bottom finally linked for the first time and fell after 2 further moves, and on the fourth I linked through the last moves and failed on going for the lip.
So much effort went into this try that I was thinking I was done for the day, but I had a hunch I shouldn’t miss out on taking advantage of those better conditions and rested for a long time. The fifth try after this rest was perfect.

I did have a strange premonition but didn’t think I would be sending it today. And it came almost all too suddenly and easily, but thinking back on the process I went through it was a really hard struggle. Above all, this problem has such technical and complex moves that it took substantial amount of time and effort just to find and construct them into sequences. I think the grade is harder than V15, but not sure if it justifies 16. I have experiences of sending many 15s now, but not much on 16 and I’m not entirely sure how much above 15 does it take to make 16. It’s also possible that someone will discover better moves. So, I’m grading this tentatively at V15-16 or 5-6 Dan. I wish to discuss this with later ascensionists and decide.
I am happy to have sent it, for now. And glad that another great problem is born. Now I feel like I’m ready to move on to next project. I’m naming this problem “Sanctum.”


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