エミリー・ハリントンさんのインスタグラム写真 - (エミリー・ハリントンInstagram)「We reached the  base of the Monster Offwidth in a little less than 4 hours after leaving the ground. It was the fastest I’d climbed the bottom of El Capitan - with the golden ticket of a partner @alexhonnold simuling/jugging behind me. It felt pretty amazing to cover so much rock so quickly.  After the powerful downclimb I lurched into the offwidth, shimying my body upward in the nausea-inducing way wide climbing provides. Although now I have a cheeky system that helps me squeak through this pitch w less drama and blood than before.  After the downclimb I scrape my way up 15ft to a no hands pedestal and sit. I tag across a right approach shoe (@lasportivana TX4) and a #6 Camelot. I switch my right TC pro for the TX4 and now with a slightly larger more comfy right foot I am able to cam and heel-toe, a much more effective method than my prior reverse cheese grater strategy.  Yesterday it felt easy. I was moving upward at a slow but consistent pace. Even the #6 - which is usually annoying to push above my head - was sliding smoothly and not snagging like usual.  The 6 is the only protection you get on the Monster, aside from a cam at the start and a bolt about 30ft up. Then it’s around 80ft of shuffling that 6 above your head until it’s too tight and you have to leave it behind for the last 20ft.  It came time to leave the 6 and I cautiously moved out a bit to get around it when I glanced down and realized that it wasn’t clipped to anything. I had pushed the cam up the entire Monster without actually clipping into it. I lol’ed at the horror of taking a 100+ft whipper and understood immediately why it was so easy to push up.  My day did not end with a send of Golden Gate in a day, but I was damn close and I made it a lot further than I expected. I feel really lucky and grateful that I have the opportunity to put everything I have (time, energy, passion) into such a big project, that I have so much support from partners, friends, and sponsors; and that the Monster Offwidth is no longer my biggest fear on El Cap. Maybe I should just ditch that #6 all together next time? 📸 @austin_siadak of me entering the Monster at sunrise // @thenorthface_climb // @petzl_official」11月9日 8時52分 - emilyaharrington

エミリー・ハリントンのインスタグラム(emilyaharrington) - 11月9日 08時52分


We reached the base of the Monster Offwidth in a little less than 4 hours after leaving the ground. It was the fastest I’d climbed the bottom of El Capitan - with the golden ticket of a partner @アレックス・オノルド simuling/jugging behind me. It felt pretty amazing to cover so much rock so quickly.

After the powerful downclimb I lurched into the offwidth, shimying my body upward in the nausea-inducing way wide climbing provides. Although now I have a cheeky system that helps me squeak through this pitch w less drama and blood than before.
After the downclimb I scrape my way up 15ft to a no hands pedestal and sit. I tag across a right approach shoe (@lasportivana TX4) and a #6 Camelot. I switch my right TC pro for the TX4 and now with a slightly larger more comfy right foot I am able to cam and heel-toe, a much more effective method than my prior reverse cheese grater strategy.

Yesterday it felt easy. I was moving upward at a slow but consistent pace. Even the #6 - which is usually annoying to push above my head - was sliding smoothly and not snagging like usual.

The 6 is the only protection you get on the Monster, aside from a cam at the start and a bolt about 30ft up. Then it’s around 80ft of shuffling that 6 above your head until it’s too tight and you have to leave it behind for the last 20ft.

It came time to leave the 6 and I cautiously moved out a bit to get around it when I glanced down and realized that it wasn’t clipped to anything. I had pushed the cam up the entire Monster without actually clipping into it. I lol’ed at the horror of taking a 100+ft whipper and understood immediately why it was so easy to push up.
My day did not end with a send of Golden Gate in a day, but I was damn close and I made it a lot further than I expected. I feel really lucky and grateful that I have the opportunity to put everything I have (time, energy, passion) into such a big project, that I have so much support from partners, friends, and sponsors; and that the Monster Offwidth is no longer my biggest fear on El Cap. Maybe I should just ditch that #6 all together next time? 📸 @austin_siadak of me entering the Monster at sunrise // @thenorthface_climb // @petzl_official


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