surflineさんのインスタグラム写真 - (surflineInstagram)「Photos + words: @leroybellet “I wish you could have been there and felt what this felt like. Three seconds of dancing inside a diamond followed by twenty seconds of the most indescribable, pitch-black, man-vs-nature violence perceivable. There isn’t a media or language that comes close to doing this justice. I think if the average person could experience this they would have a different appreciation of surfing. It’s far more than a sport. I wouldn’t risk my life a handful of times a year if it wasn’t. Surfing isn’t a sport but it’s something, or many things... Everything, if you let it be.”