surflineのインスタグラム(surfline) - 4月8日 08時58分
The Importance of Swell Period
Winds on water make waves. The stronger the winds are and the longer their duration, the more momentum they transfer into the sea and the deeper that kinetic energy penetrates. Swell period is a measure of that acquired momentum and it determines how far a swell will be able to travel in the open ocean. Short-period swell, (11 seconds or less) will usually decay within a few hundred miles, while long-period swell, (above 14 seconds), is capable of far greater journeys. That’s why powerful groundswell generated in the Southern Ocean can wind up as waves nearly half a world away in the Alaskan Gulf.
To understand the importance of swell period more...link in bio.
📷: @miahklein
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