surflineのインスタグラム(surfline) - 2月26日 06時17分


Photo and words by @johnnyjungle
April, 2011 @pitstop_hill. As we motored towards the line-up, we could hear the hoots as people and boats alike scrambled to get out of the way of the dark lines of water that were approaching the reef.
I stood precariously on the slippery bow of a narrow wooden Mentawai surf boat and did my best not to fall into the drink as all the surfers in my boat shifted their weight around to try and get a look at what was unfolding.
The unsuspecting boat driver in front of us had been lighting a cigarette and was unaware of what was thundering down the reef towards him. Luckily he’d heard the call of one of the surfers in the foreground and ripped his outboard motor to life just in time to spin his boat towards the approaching wave and give it just enough juice to get up the face without launching off the back. As he went over, the surfer - Drew Meredith @drewmeredith12, held his composure in the tube while no more that 6ft in front of him, the prop churned and chandeliered the lip as he passed underneath. Drew stood tall as he came out of the tube and the boat slammed into the water on the other side - causing the engine to cut off. Luckily the boat had enough momentum to just sneak over the empty wave behind it. Literally one second later and there probably would’ve been a much gnarlier outcome to that situation.


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