ナショナルジオグラフィックのインスタグラム(natgeo) - 9月27日 11時01分

Photo by @paleyphoto (Matthieu Paley) | Paul Salopek (@outofedenwalk) making his way up Irshad, a remote mountain pass connecting Afghanistan and Pakistan. At this stage, he had walked all the way from Ethiopia. The next day, because of a mix up, Paul and I were arrested by the secret service. Here is an extract from Paul’s evocative text, from the September issue of @ナショナルジオグラフィック magazine:
"Early that morning, in a coarse ice mist, we set out with two pack donkeys to climb Irshad Pass. Climbing a mountain under such conditions is a strange and disorienting experience. It was like scaling a frozen and crazily tilted sea. We tottered along ice-rimed cliffs. Snow hid fatal crevices. Sometimes the donkeys fell through the crust and refused to get up. By midday a blizzard was in full gust.
“Hello, Arthur, can you do me a favour?” Paley was shouting into the satellite phone. We couldn’t see a hundred steps ahead, much less the peaks far above. Paley’s brother in Paris googled and read out to us the GPS coordinates for Irshad.
Irshad Pass rises to 16,335 feet above sea level. We finally reached it at sunset. Paley ventured a feeble victory dance. I gulped air so thin and metallic it cut my lungs like razor blades. Gales had scoured the summit to raw bedrock. Without shelter or firewood, it was a hazardous place to camp. But we had little choice.
Plainclothes Pakistani security forces confronted us the next night while we camped at the eastern end of the Hindu Kush. We had notified the government of our plan to enter Pakistan via Irshad. We carried valid visas issued in advance. But the officers, armed with AK-47s, insisted we had trespassed into a restricted zone. Overnight, they drove us to the frontier town of Gilgit. In detention there, I overheard Paley, curled on his cot, parroting in his emphatic Norman accent the lines from a film playing on his hidden mobile phone: “An eye for an eye only ends up making see whole world blind.” “Matthieu,” I whispered, “are you watching Gandhi in an intelligence agency safe house?”
Follow @paleyphoto for more images from this @ナショナルジオグラフィック assignment. #Karakoram #hindukush #mountainpass #afghanborder #natgeo #mediumformat

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