デイブ・グラハムのインスタグラム(dave_graham_) - 1月23日 11時29分
Not every boulder ends up having such an amazing method to solve the impossible feeling puzzle ? I’ve never done sequence quite like this one, but WOW, what a sick solution!!! At first, it seemed like an un-matchable gaston, @diegolmontull pulled out some freak rose move, dawning the idea of a full 180 as possibility, essentially morphing the gaston into an undercling ??unleashing you onward unhindered!!! Its hard, and feels crunk, but it works GREAT ?♂️?After a few more sessions I managed to put it all together on a chilly afternoon, and Kook Slam [8b+] was born. A quasi-modern rig; once you complete the boulder problem you reach a rest where you rope up and tackle the burly direct start to Pizza Dick, an antigua 5 bolt 8B from @トミー・コールドウェル opened in 99 ??? I got super pumped, and clipped bolts, so one could also call it a route, seemingly at least 9a, but its sadly shorter than most of the boulders we open these days; Beyond the Wall of Sleep clocks in at around 45 feet, a great example of recent grading confusion -What happens when many boulders are taller than shorter routes??? Thus, I think a bouldering grade is logical, tricky one to give a number ?♂️ Huge thanks to @tchadx and @fausey for the vision, encouraging me to try this crazy rig, and equipping me for the roped portion of the climb ? Now that I’m clipping bolts again, I feel prepared for Spain ?? 3 more days in the hood and I’M OUT ?? @island_io @fiveten_official @petzl_official @trangoworldofficial @walltopia @frictionlabs @sendclimbing @kookslams
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2018/1/23