デイブ・グラハムのインスタグラム(dave_graham_) - 7月22日 01時34分


Peace Corps [8C] ⚔️ Back on April 14th I made the last notable ascent from my trip to Ticino this winter, and although I would have loved to climb more of my projects, it wasn’t in the stars this round. I found this line rather challenging; a strange small-boxish crux with a super tricky kneebar, equally tricky heal hook, and bizarre little crack-slot grip 😅 After climbing Fight Club, I figured out my beta rather quickly to this beautiful direct variation from @kimmarschner which I thought could go down quickly, but after a few attempts at linking the crux, I created a crazy blister/wound on the side of my finger from this right hand slot grip 😭 Things got complicated after that, and an epic tape-war ensued 🤦🏻‍♂️ The only way I could do the move was by taping, but then I couldn’t actually fit my fingers into the thing crack-like crimp 😂 Many sessions flew by falling from the crux heal hook, with my fingers not properly settling into their correct places, as I couldn’t ever pull outward enough to stay tight in the position. The move on its own was fine, if I wiggled my fingers into the grip off the pads, but from the start I could never get the hold correctly. This turned into a rather drawn out battle, and a learning experience in tapping🤣 After about 4 sessions of subtle progress, the cut never fully healed, and neither did my attemps. Frustrated and looking for answers, I realized maybe I was approaching my taping method incorrectly, not my beta or climbing 🤔 Instead of wrapping the joint super tight, so that the tape was thinner, I tried loosening it, and magically could bend my finger into the right position while grabbing the hold 🤗 I began giving more burns, and on a sub-par try, stuck the crux move randomly, then proceeded to get blasted pumped and had one of the best fights of my life 🙌🏻 Somehow I didn’t drop the finally section, and summited this beast, feeling very rewarded by the effort, and happy I learned something new!!! Tape can be ok!! FYI, I hate tape 🤣😂 Sorry to all my followers for the radio silence the past months 😞 I will be more active here on IG again, so more content coming along here soon and some new videos in the works!!


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2023/7/22

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