Photo by @salvarezphoto Words by @neilshea13 In 2010 I lived in Paris with @salvarezphoto and his family while we worked on a story for @natgeo. We were not far from the Bastille, and just three blocks from the offices of the newspaper, Charlie Hebdo. One evening Steve made this image looking east from our apartment. To the right, a crescent moon rises above the Grand Palais chased by a planet, though I’ve forgotten which one. Mars, Jupiter, Venus—only a few luminous bodies can stand above the City of Lights and hope at all to seen. Far to the left is one of them: the Eiffel Tower, slender and glittering beside the Seine. Events in Paris over the last few days have confused and enraged me; I know Steve feels the same. There is not much you can do with such emotions, so I’ve been trying to see it differently. During our work in Paris we went each day into the city’s deep places. We stared at its Celtic foundations, explored its old Catholic cellar holes, wandered dumb and giddy through vaults beneath the national bank, where some gold bars are still stamped with Soviet hammers. One of our French fixers would occasionally quote DeGualle to us, in satire, and in particular he loved a speech the general gave upon returning to Paris after the Nazis had been chased out. Paris brisé, Paris outragé, Paris martyrisé, DeGaulle said. “Mai, Paris libéré!” Our fixer was poking fun at Americans, who have never known occupation, and also at the tall old general himself, who is to the French both a great hero and a supreme caricature. I’m smiling as I recall it. Everything in those experiences reminds me that there has forever been something to fear, some barbarian threatening at the gate. There has always been the stupid ease of violence. The French have traveled through centuries of it, outlasting all, and they have emerged larger and laughing every time. This photograph reminds me of what we loved in France, and what we learned there, under layers of rock and water and bone, about resilience. Our thoughts are with friends and colleagues in Paris today as they gather to prove, once more, the powerlessness of small evils. #paris #liberté #charliehebdo #freedomofspeech

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Photo by @salvarezphoto
Words by @neilshea13 In 2010 I lived in Paris with @salvarezphoto and his family while we worked on a story for @ナショナルジオグラフィック. We were not far from the Bastille, and just three blocks from the offices of the newspaper, Charlie Hebdo. One evening Steve made this image looking east from our apartment. To the right, a crescent moon rises above the Grand Palais chased by a planet, though I’ve forgotten which one. Mars, Jupiter, Venus—only a few luminous bodies can stand above the City of Lights and hope at all to seen. Far to the left is one of them: the Eiffel Tower, slender and glittering beside the Seine.
Events in Paris over the last few days have confused and enraged me; I know Steve feels the same. There is not much you can do with such emotions, so I’ve been trying to see it differently. During our work in Paris we went each day into the city’s deep places. We stared at its Celtic foundations, explored its old Catholic cellar holes, wandered dumb and giddy through vaults beneath the national bank, where some gold bars are still stamped with Soviet hammers. One of our French fixers would occasionally quote DeGualle to us, in satire, and in particular he loved a speech the general gave upon returning to Paris after the Nazis had been chased out. Paris brisé, Paris outragé, Paris martyrisé, DeGaulle said. “Mai, Paris libéré!” Our fixer was poking fun at Americans, who have never known occupation, and also at the tall old general himself, who is to the French both a great hero and a supreme caricature.

I’m smiling as I recall it. Everything in those experiences reminds me that there has forever been something to fear, some barbarian threatening at the gate. There has always been the stupid ease of violence. The French have traveled through centuries of it, outlasting all, and they have emerged larger and laughing every time. This photograph reminds me of what we loved in France, and what we learned there, under layers of rock and water and bone, about resilience. Our thoughts are with friends and colleagues in Paris today as they gather to prove, once more, the powerlessness of small evils. #paris #libert #charliehebdo #freedomofspeech


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