スージー・ロウのインスタグラム(susiebubble) - 9月21日 22時18分


When I was 14 I read a biography about Emma Hamilton, better known as Lord Horatio Nelson’s lover, inspired by the beautiful portraits of her by George Romney
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Funny then that she should pop up as an inspiration for @アーデム ‘s new collection, but seen through Susan Sontag’s lens, as her one and only historical novel The Volcano Lover, centred around the mercurial love triangle between Hamilton, her husband vulcanologist Sir William and Nelson, playing out beneath Mount Vesuvius.
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“In the shadow of the volcano, she is a force to be reckoned with. Unrelenting in the face of adversity, she carved opportunity out of misfortune, purpose from insecurity, passion from chaos. How might we do likewise?” read the notes.
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If impassioned chaos means hammered silk military jackets, cotton voile fichu blouses, toile de jouy denim, empire line dresses that are meant to trail muddy ground, then I’m all for it
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There’s a hardier and earthier vibe to Erdem this season. Grounded by Sontag’s pragmatic style as seen in the parkas with voluminous sleeves but also by virtue of being conceived in lockdown. Still, in a dressing room next to the inspiration board, a pink fondant floor length fancy in silk moire lay awaiting. As this weekend of LFW collections have shown, we do need to gasp after all.


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