スージー・ロウのインスタグラム(susiebubble) - 12月1日 01時11分


Thanks to the success of @alxeandermcqueen’s Unlocking Stories exhibition the team and atelier have been generous enough to deconstruct another important pillar of McQueen’s lexicon on the top floor of the flagship store in London -
The English garden or more specifically the rose, with all its symbolic and historic connations - exploded and made sculptural in the final passage of the AW19 collection. Its origins can be found in a Widows of Culloden gathered taffeta dress and also in a satin bolero from the Girl who Lived in a Tree collection, leading to the stellar sold-out AW19 tailoring with sculpted satin rose sleeves
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Once again this open access exhibitions is stuffed to the brim with toiles, sketches, unseen fitting photos, trial pieces that all showcase Alexander McQueen as truly the only atelier in London that goes this deep into research, fitting on the body, couture techniques and pushing craft to its outer limit
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It’s the meticulous back and forth process that is revelatory. On the other side of the room is the Sarabande dress, once adorned with fresh flowers and now covered in realistic artificial ones as well as clusters of dried hydrangeas. Notes on the wall about the silk flowers that didn’t pass the test (“too fake looking - no spots of bright pink”) reveal a rigorous exacting standard that is fascinating
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The Sarabande collection with its dusty hues and layered tulle lead to Burton’s own plumes of cut organza feathers billowing our in the AW12 gowns and again in the latest SS20 collection with digital printing providing that vivid degradé blue effect
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And on the garden grows. The earliest piece in show is an embroidered jute dress from the 1999 collection 13 which morphs into a harness dress embroidered with 1950s cabbage roses
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The point of these open access exhibitions though is education - a passing of knowledge to ensure labour intensive processes from inspiration to final runway result doesn’t get crowded out by a fashion landscape that is increasingly dominated by internet research, lazy techniques and cookie cutter styling
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Roses is on at the top floor of Alexander McQueen, 27 Old Bond St in London for the next six months


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