アラナ・ニコルズのインスタグラム(alanathejane) - 9月27日 01時05分


Today I would have been preparing to surf in the @xtremepantin2018 world waveski championships in Pantin, Spain. But alas, I am no spring chicken any more and I have to continue to heal from this hip dislocation injury.
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It’s not even the competition I miss. It’s the paddle out, the peace and intensity of the oceans energy, the patience and analysis of the surf break and finally... I even miss the excitement of paddling for a questionable wave and going over the falls...that’s how you know your overdue to get into the big blue!
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Best of luck to all of the competitors this week! @oce_lu I believe in you!!!
#wwst2018 ?: @nomadic.educator loving that commentary!


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2018/9/27

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