ナーレ・フッカタイバルのインスタグラム(nalle_hukkataival) - 10月30日 22時08分
Last day, best day in Australia!! This trip I couldn’t resist the call of the Taipan wall and found myself sucked into a few projects. One project in particular taking a bullet straight line up the middle of the amphitheater over some 3 pitches.
Previously known as the dyno project, majority of the line was originally bolted by Malcolm Matheson in early 90’s with the final third pitch having been opened by Dave Jones. I bolted the lower section this trip after finding a way to climb it free by a wild dyno to connect the missing dots.
Three pitches of glorious Taipan climbing - doesn’t get much better! The second pitch especially is pretty out of this world with it’s pristine sculpted Taipan rock. Taipan pioneer Malcolm really knew how to pick them!
The first pitch stands as the hardest, I’d say, followed by the second pitch with it’s exposed all-points-off dyno. And the final pitch way at the top packs a punch too. Grade 33 or so for it’s demanding bouldery cruxes and intimidatingly huge dynos.
After days of mostly hanging alone up on the wall and dialing in the sequences it came down to the wire. In classic style I pulled it off on my last day, lowered to the ground and checked-in for my flight on my phone!
The Great Affair (33)! A couple memorable first for me in this route, including my first multi-pitch first ascent. And what a climb for that!
Big thanks to Malcolm for the OG vision and equipping as well Dave, friends who endured the hanging belays, Kamil for the photos and Jai for rest!
Already missing Australia and Taipan wall! Swooooppp!! ?? ? @kamil_sustiak #liveclimbrepeat #rockclimbing @blackdiamond @lasportivagram
[BIHAKUEN]UVシールド(UVShield)
>> 飲む日焼け止め！「UVシールド」を購入する
4,878
23
2017/10/30
