クイックシルバーのインスタグラム(quiksilver) - 11月11日 13時36分

Introducing #ThisWave — our way of sharing Hawaii with you this season.
Waves here are truly special. A single one can make your career, break your career, humble you, hurt you, kill you or give you a euphoric experience you’ll never forget. They each have their own story and starting now, our riders are going to tell those stories by giving you raw and honest insight on what made the best waves they’ve wrangled unique.
To start, here’s @koarothman with a memory of a beautiful mutant from last year. "I wasn’t even sure if #ThisWave was going to be a good one. I was sitting in a weird spot — definitely not where I think the best ones come in — and the sun was going down so it was already kind of dark, but I just whipped it and went anyway. When I got to the bottom, I saw it throwing and realized how big the barrel was. It wasn’t so bad for a wave to come in on.”

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• photokeoki