マウンテンハードウェアのインスタグラム(mountainhardwear) - 2月24日 05時11分

We spent two days trying the climb the monster pitch, both falling in different places. The route starts up a 45 degree wall with thin ice placements sometimes only 8-10mm thick. The first crux is pulling around a roof on ice that was so thin you could see your pick through. Keeping your feet on is crucial so that your body stays still and doesn’t swing around. Any change in direction of the ice axe breaks the placement so you have to engage your core and climb with poise otherwise you fall hard. This happened to me three times! I knew the only way to get to the top was by making no mistakes. Every placement had to be perfect. I pulled through the roof at the start and climbed through the hole. Going across an ice roof I saw a hole. I put my foot above my head and twisted it into the hole, locking it in place, I could take the weight of my arms momentarily. The last 10 feet got even steeper. The weight of 80m rope pulled me down as the lactic acid in my forearms opened the fingers on my tools.

Swopping from one hand to the other, I inched my way closer to the top. The ice had turned to snow and every placement ripped through. So close yet so far, I had been on the pitch for over an hour, now the thickest ice was on the steepest line. I committed to it and luckily was able to get first time placements in good ice. I finally arrived at the belay but was so tired I could not pull up the rope to clip it into the lower off. I tried again but couldn’t do. Shit! I found a way to change my body position and clip the rope. I shouted to Klem and he lowered me off in to Space. Wow what a pitch, out of this world!! So steep, long and like nothing else I had ever climbed before! The next day Klem climbed it too. We called it "Interstellar Spice", 260ft, WI 12

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