Robbie Crawfordのインスタグラム(robbiecrawford) - 12月15日 04時56分

@__jmv__ sent me this clip @クラーク・リトル shot of him and I wonder if people fully get how heavy this is ... this shorebreak even though always dangerous has different levels of insanity ... probably the least scary for me is when there's no sandbar and the waves pound directly on the sand ... because even though you can get really slammed it usually just washes you up the beach so you never really feel like you're gonna drown ... the next level is when the sandbar moves just off the beach ... during those conditions it breaks in inches of water and you can bounce off the bottom and get tumbled under the water for a bit but it's USUALLY not that bad getting back to the beach to catch a breather ... then there's days like this shot ... when the waves are huge and the sandbar moves far out ... on those days the ocean feels like a massive drowning machine ... you can get caught in places where you've never felt so powerless in your life ... where you can't get into the beach and you can't get out past the waves ... like you're literally stuck in an aquatic hell ... when @__jmv__ paddled over the ledge of this beast that's what he was throwing himself into #GoPro #robbieshares

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